Supper clubs have been around since people have been making food, but the modern, pop-up supper clubs have enjoyed more than a decade in the spotlight, thanks to the success of experiential food businesses like Outstanding in the Field and even the local restaurant Dai Due, which started as a supper club.
A new traveling supper club company called Moonrise Standard started last year that will be swinging through Austin in a few weeks.
The first Moonrise Standard dinner was in Flagstaff, and they’ve hosted dinners in Joshua Tree and the Cuyama Valley in California, as well as a few others in Arizona, but this is their first Texas dinner.
In addition to the feasts, owners Alana Tivnan and Derek Christensen plan to host food-themed retreats and workshops, but in the meantime, they are gearing up for the Jan 20 dinner at the Plant at Kyle, a Lake/Flato-designed event facility that you might remember used to host those Rude Mechs Oyster Club parties.
Tickets cost $185 and are available at moonrisestandard.com. They are working with local companies and farms including Still Austin, Austin Winery, Salt & Time, Moonlight Bakery, Dos Lunas Artisan Cheese, Antonelli’s Cheese Shop, Katie’s Seafood, Boggy Creek Farm, Johnson’s Backyard Garden Organic Farm, Green Gate Farms, Agua Dolce, Barton Springs Mill, Flat Track Coffee, Austin Beerworks and Confituras, and you can find the complete menu here.
At the time, the author was running the Dairy Hollow House, a nationally renowned bed and breakfast in Eureka Springs, Ark. She was a local celebrity for hosting people such as Bill and Hillary Clinton and Betty Friedan, and my mom relied on her “Dairy Hollow House” cookbooks as others did the red plaid “Better Homes and Gardens” book or “The Joy of Cooking.” (And no, Crescent Dragonwagon is not her given name. She made it up as a teenager when getting married to her first husband — the name outlasted the marriage.)
This year, she’s back with both genres. “Bean by Bean,” a recipe-filled homage to the lowly legume, came out earlier this year, and “All the Awake Animals are Almost Asleep,” her first children’s book in almost 10 years, is coming out this fall. (Another first: Dragonwagon will record an e-book, so children at bedtime can hear her mellifluous voice read her own carefully crafted words.)
This book, her 50th, is Dragonwagon’s second on beans, but as she notes in the introduction, “beans have certainly come up, up, in the world since I first began writing about them.” Once lacking in social standing and availability and “reviled nutritionally as little more than starch, ” beans across the board are more appreciated than they ever have been.
The self-proclaimed “legumaniac” gets excited talking about all the possibilities a single bean presents.
“If you have a dry bean, you could join it with hundreds of its fellows and have it for dinner, ” she said last week from her Vermont home. (She and her late husband, Ned, turned the Arkansas bed and breakfast into a writer’s colony, which still exists today.) “Or you could rinse it, soak it and sprout it and have it for dinner in a couple of days. Or you could plant it and eat it as a shoot, eat it as a pod or eat it as a shelled bean. Then you could dry them out and plant them again.”
As one of the only plants that puts as much back into the soil as it takes, beans are helpful at every phase of their lives. “They are so generous.”
One thing that hasn’t changed is the fact that beans are one of the cheapest forms of protein available. “Everyone is watching their income now, yet you can still bring a giant dish of wonderfulness and protein to a potluck, ” she said.
We tend to think of beans as an ingredient for wintertime soups and stews, but many of the recipes in the book are perfect for summer, including dips, stir-fries and salads, such as this Black Bean and Sweet Potato Salad with Honey-Lime Vinaigrette. (One of Dragonwagon’s favorite dishes is a seven-layer Middle Eastern mountain dip that would be a nice change if you’re tired of bringing the same seven-layer Tex-Mex dip to parties.)
Dragonwagon says she pours the nurturing spirit that made her bed and breakfast so successful into two places: Fearless Writing workshops that she hosts at her home and, much to her surprise, Facebook. “Thanks to the Internet, I’m interacting with people about food and tender things in a different way, but in a connected way. I ran the inn for 18 years. That nurturing energy needs to go somewhere.”
Black Bean and Sweet Potato Salad with Honey-Cilantro Vinaigrette
For the honey-cilantro vinaigrette:
1 bunch fresh cilantro leaves
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1/3 cup honey
4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
1 1/2 tsp. salt
Plenty of freshly ground black pepper
Dash of Tabasco or similar hot sauce
1 cup olive oil
For the salad:
3 cups (two 15-oz. cans) tender-cooked black beans, drained well and rinsed
4 scallions, roots chopped off and whites and 2 inches of green sliced
1/3 lb. (about 1 1/5 cups) chilled, cooked green beans, sliced into 1-inch lengths (optional)
2 or 3 large sweet potatoes, baked, peeled and chunked
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper For the dressing, combine all of the ingredients except the oil in a food processor and buzz smooth. You may need to scrape the processor sides once or twice. If your machine’s pusher tube has a little hole, pour the oil into the tube in two batches and let the oil drip in as the machine runs. Otherwise, drizzle in the oil by hand. Taste for seasonings, then transfer to a lidded container or jar and store in the refrigerator for up to a week.
Combine the black beans, scallions and green beans, if using, in a large bowl and toss with about 1/2 cup of the dressing. Add the sweet potatoes and toss very, very gently to keep the tender sweet potato pieces somewhat intact. Taste. Correct the seasonings with salt, pepper, and additional dressing if you like. Pass the remaining dressing at the table. Dig in, and get ready for the compliments; act modest. Use additional dressing on lettuce salads or even on entrees like enchiladas or a stir-fry. Serves 4 to 6.
Of all the food traditions associated with New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day, none are as prevalent as black-eyed peas.
In the South, we usually eat them in the form of Hoppin’ John or some other kind of black-eyed pea stew, but if you’re tired of Hoppin’ John or just want to try a new dish this weekend, check out this curry from one of my favorite cookbook authors, Crescent Dragonwagon.
“Tanzania was formed in 1964 when two former British colonies…joined to become the United Republic of Tanzania. With Africa’s highest mountain and deepest lake, with coastal areas and a central plateau, the country is diverse geographically, ecologically and agriculturally. This luscious bowl reflects the coast’s coconut palms and banana trees. The seasonings combine indigenous Zanzibar cloves with spices introduced by immigrants from the Indian subcontinent, particularly Goa. The beans are widely grown throughout this still mostly small-farm-based country.”
Don’t let the banana freak you out. You can make this without the banana, but if you like the smooth texture and earthy sweetness that an avocado provides on top of tortilla soup or chili, you might as well try a bite with the banana.
The quantity of water you’ll use the cook the beans and then make the stew will depend on many factors, particularly how cooked your beans are when you start. Her recipe starts with dried beans, but I started with these pre-soaked beans from H-E-B that I thought were more cooked than they actually were.
If I were making this soup again, especially on a weeknight or when I didn’t have as much time as on a holiday or weekend, I’d likely start with canned black-eyed peas.
Want to make this a full meal? Serve it on top of cooked rice or add several handfuls of greens (spinach, kale, collards, etc.) during the last 15 minutes of simmering on the stove.
Curried Black-Eyed Pea and Coconut Stew
1 cup dried black-eyed peas, picked over and rinsed
2 Tbsp. coconut oil, ghee, vegetable or peanut oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 green or red bell pepper, seeded and chopped
1 serrano or jalapeño, seeds removed and finely chopped
1 teaspoon freshly minced ginger
1 tablespoon curry powder, preferably one with lots of turmeric
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 (14.5 oz.) can diced tomatoes with their juices
1 teaspoon honey or agave nectar
1 (15 oz.) can unsweetened coconut milk
1 banana, thickly sliced (optional)
Banana chips or toasted coconut, for garnish (optional)
Salt and freshly-ground black pepper
Combine the black-eyed peas and 4 cups water in a large, heavy saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil and then turn down heat to a simmer. Cook, partially covered, until the black-eyed peas are tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Toward the end of the cooking, heat the oil in a large, heavy pot over medium heat and cook the onions until soft, about 6 minutes. Stir in the peppers, chile and ginger and cook, stirring often, for another 4 minutes. Lower the heat slightly and add the curry powder and cloves, sauteing until the oil has taken on a slightly yellowish tint, another 1 to 2 minutes.
Stir the onion mixture into the simmering black-eyed peas, along with the tomatoes, honey and coconut milk. Continue simmering for 5 to 10 minutes. Season the soup with salt and pepper. Just before serving, add the sliced banana (if using) and garnish each bowl with toasted coconut shreds or banana chips, if you like.
Thanks to the multi-functionality of the Instant Pot, the dish cooks in about half an hour. If you want to make it on the stove, you can use the same proportion of ingredients (with slightly more water thanks to the longer simmer on the stove) and order of instructions, but the length of time on each step will vary.
This Southern classic side dish is typically made with black-eyed peas. But you can substitute your favorite beans in this recipe. Note: To quick soak peas or beans, rinse them thoroughly and place in the bowl of the pressure cooker with 8 cups of water. Bring to a boil on the Sauté setting. Once boiling, secure the lid and set on Manual with high pressure for 2 minutes. Quick release, drain peas, rinse and set aside.
— Laura Arnold
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 slices bacon, sliced 1/2-inch pieces
1 onion, finely chopped
2 carrots, peeled and small diced
2 stalks celery, small diced
1 green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and small diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon fresh thyme or 2 teaspoons dried thyme
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 pound dried black-eyed peas, rinsed and quick soaked (see note) or soaked overnight
3 cups chicken stock
White rice, cooked, to serve
Scallions, thinly sliced, to garnish
Select the Sauté setting and heat the olive oil. Add the bacon and cook until browned and crispy, about 6 minutes. Remove to a plate and set aside. Drain half of the fat and discard. Add the onion, carrots, celery, bell pepper and garlic and cook until almost translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the cayenne, thyme, salt, and pepper and cook an additional minute. Add the black-eyed peas and chicken stock.
Secure the lid and place on Manual with high pressure for 15 minutes. Use quick release. Serve over white rice and garnish with scallions and crispy bacon. Serves 4 to 6.
You can’t go far in a bookstore these days without seeing a title with “hygge” in it.
Hygge (pronounced “hoo-gah”) is the Danish word for “inner warmth” or “coziness,” and it’s a concept that forms the backbone of this notoriously happy society.
In recent months, dozens of books have been published on hygge, but it’s an idea I’ve been familiar with for several years thanks to my friend, Nils Juul-Hansen, a Dane who has called Austin home since 2001.
Juul-Hansen can’t not talk about hygge, in part, because it’s everywhere in Austin. He says that even his Copenhagen-based mother has commented on our openheartedness and willingness to be authentic with one another. He finds it on his daily trips to Barton Springs or the new library downtown. That’s where we met recently to record an interview for our Austin360 podcast, “I Love You So Much,” that comes out today. (Click here to listen to the episode, which also features an interview with “Steal Like An Artist” author Austin Kleon.)
We talked about why this kind of connection matters and how you can really foster it during the Christmas season. He suggested turning off the TV and putting away the phone to do something that requires you to be present with someone else. If the weather’s nice, that might mean a walk on the boardwalk, a dip in Barton Springs or a drive out in the Hill Country. When winter settles in, you might be turning inward with a warm up of cocoa, a night of board games or a hot bath.
Juul-Hansen is emphatic that Austin is the most hygge-filled city he’s been to in the U.S. Here’s what hygge looks like according to the hashtag #americanhygge.
Where are the best places in Austin to find this kind of hyggelig interaction? The top spots that come to my mind: under the Zilker Tree, on the Pfluger pedestrian bridge or wandering the aisles of Whole Foods or H-E-B. I’d love to hear your suggestions in the comments or through the hashtag.
I have at least 100 cookie cutters that I’ve collected over the years.
How many times do I make sugar cookies and actually use them? Rarely. I don’t have quite the sugar cookie touch of Lee Stokes Hilton, a local writer who loves to bake and decorate cookies with her grandkids, but I do love a good holiday craft project.
That’s why I pulled out the box of cookie cutters last weekend to make salt dough ornaments, an old fashioned, family friendly activity for people of all ages and abilities.
It’s a wonderful way to spend a few hours together during the holiday break, but they are anything but laborious or tricky. I used this generic salt dough ornament recipe from Allrecipes, and though I overbaked the first batch slightly, you couldn’t tell once we started painting them with acrylic paints.
I haven’t yet coated the ornaments we made with an acrylic spray or varnish to help preserve them for many years to come, but the only motivation I need to do so is the “Baby’s First Christmas” salt dough ornament I have on my own Christmas tree from when I was a kid. It’s the most beloved ornament I have, and I’m grateful to have had the chance to make some holiday memories (and perhaps lifelong ornaments) with my kids this Christmas season.
Salt Dough Ornaments
Use a straw to poke little holes in the dough so that you can thread a ribbon through it, and bake the cut-out dough on parchment paper. Keep an eye on the ornaments after they’ve been in the oven for about 30 minutes so they don’t get overly browned. You’re not eating these, but they can get frail if overbaked. Granulated salt dissolves faster than kosher salt, so stick to the smaller granules.
4 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup granulated salt
1 1/2 cups warm water
Heat oven to 325 degrees. Mix flour and salt well. Gradually add water, stirring with a large spoon. Finish mixing with hands. Knead until soft and pliable. Roll out on floured surface about 1/8-inch thick. Cut shapes with cookie cutters. Place on cookie sheets. With a toothpick or straw, make a hole in the top of the ornament for threading string. Bake until hard, from 30 minutes to 1 hour, depending on the thickness of the dough. Decorate with paint and varnish to preserve.
Ahead of the April release of “Magnolia Table,” Gaines has been posting even more food than ever on her social media channels, including a super popular Instagram post showing off three of the very easiest Christmas candy projects: peanut clusters, chocolate-dipped Ritz cracker sandwiches and Rolo-coated pretzels.
To make the peanut clusters, simply melt stir peanut into melted chocolate bark and then scoop onto a parchment-lined pan to cool.
As she showed in her Instagram story, you can take that melted chocolate and dip Ritz crackers or Ritz cracker peanut butter sandwiches and then dip them in colorful sprinkles.
The third recipe she showed was pretty brilliant, I must say. Instead of dipping pretzels in the chocolate, she placed a Rolo — those caramel-filled chocolates — on top of a pretzel and then melted them in the oven to create a salty, crunchy treat that you’ll be munching all holiday weekend.
It’s time to start thinking about that Christmas dinner, and if ham is on the menu, you’ll need to decide how you want to fix it.
Almost all the ham sold in the U.S. is already cooked and sometimes smoked. You can get it with or without the bone, sliced or unsliced, but they almost all come with a packet of glaze to add to the ham while cooking it.
Many cooks swear by a can of Coke, a jar of apricot jelly or even the powdered stuff you’ll find in that packet, but British cookbook author Gizzi Erskine likes to make a pineapple glaze with pineapple juice and red currant jelly and a nice complement of spices, including clove and Scotch bonnet. I’ve adapted her recipe here to include more readily available powdered chilies. You could use pineapple juice and pineapple jelly for even more pineapple flavor, if you’d like.
No matter what, line your roasting pan with aluminum foil or use a disposable one. The glaze will stick to the bottom of the pan and cause a mess to clean. This recipe calls for baking the ham at 450 degrees, but if you have time and are worried about it drying out, you can cook it at a lower temperature, between 350 and 400, for a longer period of time.
Sealing the ham with aluminum foil keeps it moist while it heats in the oven, but you can take it off for the last 20 minutes if you like some caramelization on top of the ham. The time will vary depending on the size of the ham, but the inside of the meat should measure 140 degrees with a thermometer.
Spiced Pineapple Christmas Ham
The Christmas ham. I love it so much. I’ve written numerous ham recipes in my time — mango-glazed, pomegranate-glazed — if it’s got the combo of sweetness, tartness and spice, it’s going to be a winner. This recipe uses pineapple, and the tartness outweighs its sweetness. I think it cuts through the ham in the most brilliant way.
— Gizzi Erskine
1 (8 lb.) spiral-sliced, bone-in ham
3/4 cup pineapple juice
2 tablespoons red currant jelly
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 teaspoon cayenne or other powered chili (optional)
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
Heat the oven to 450 degrees. Put all the glaze ingredients in a pan and simmer until reduced to a syrupy glaze.
Place the ham in a large roast pan lined with aluminum foil. Pour and brush the glaze all over the ham and, if scored or sliced, into the corner of each diamond or slices. Seal the ham with another layer of aluminum foil. Roast for an hour, until sticky and caramelized. Check the ham several times and baste with any liquid that has gathered in the pan. You can leave the aluminum foil off for the last 15 minutes if you prefer a sticky sweet glaze on top.
Leave the ham to rest for 15 minutes if you want to eat it warm, or let it cool completely. Serves 14 as part of a buffet, with leftovers.
The holidays are always one of the busiest times of the year for the Central Texas Food Bank, which means it’s a good time to remind good-hearted Central Texas about which kinds of donations are the most helpful for people who are struggling to buy enough food.
Central Texas Food Bank Dietitian Mary Agnew, who writes our monthly Ask a Dietitian column, shared some tips in her article this month:
At the food bank, we are receiving your donations by the truck full this time of year, so it’s a good time to share what items are most helpful for our clients. Canned cranberry sauce doesn’t have the same nutritional impact on a family as a can of tuna or chicken breast, a can of low-sodium vegetable soup, a jar of peanut butter or a bag of brown rice or pinto beans, which are all items requested most from our clients.
Peanut butter, rice, beans, canned protein and soup. Those are the items that not only pack a nutritional punch but are also more appealing than cans of pumpkin puree or evaporated milk leftover from Thanksgiving.
There are donation drop-off locations in many grocery stores, but you can also drop them off at the Central Texas Food Bank between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. Monday through Friday. For non–perishable food donations, an after-hours drop box is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week, just outside the front entrance. They are also always looking for volunteers and sustained donations throughout the year. You can find out more by going to centraltexasfoodbank.org.
In this week’s food section, we shared the recipe for Velveeta fudge, but for a Facebook livestream that day, I also made marshmallow fudge to see which one people preferred. Most people who tried with fudge made with Velveeta loved it, agreeing that if I hadn’t said it had Velveeta in it, they wouldn’t have been able to tell.
However, this marshmallow fudge recipe was universally praised for a richer flavor and more traditional fudge-like texture. You might know this as Fantasy Fudge, which was the name of the recipe printed on the side of the marshmallow cream container, but mini marshmallows are a little easier to measure and work with.
If you’re using regular-sized or jumbo marshmallows, cut them into pieces with scissors so they will melt quickly in the hot butter. The same is true of the chocolate. Large chunks won’t melt thoroughly and will leave a grainy texture. You can use cooking spray instead of butter when preparing the pan.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more, room temperature, for brushing
1 can (5 ounces) evaporated milk
1 1/4 cups mini marshmallows
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 1/4 cups sugar
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
9 ounces (1 3/4 cups) bittersweet chocolate, chopped
Lightly brush an 8-inch baking pan with butter, then line with parchment, leaving 2-inch overhang on two sides. Lightly butter parchment. In a medium saucepan, combine remaining 2 tablespoons butter, sugar, evaporated milk and salt.
Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, then cook for 3 minutes more, until pale golden and thickened slightly. Remove from heat and stir in marshmallows until mostly melted, then add chocolate and vanilla. Stir until chocolate and marshmallows have melted completely and mixture is smooth. Pour into prepared pan; smooth top with a spatula.
Refrigerate until firm, at least 2 hours. Remove parchment with fudge from pan and cut into 36 squares. Fudge can be stored refrigerated, covered with plastic, up to 1 week.